Honda 2005 CRF450X full test and tech report on Motorsports Network.


05 CRF450X		05 CRF450X
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Tech Hints (5-16-05):
1. Front Tire: The vague feeling of the front end (and not being able to rail a corner or pushing in a berm) is due in part to the front tire. It's too soft for this heavier bike and the tire flexes too much. As a test, run 20-22 pounds of air in the tire and try it. Replace the tire with a more stiff tire. Make sure to keep the height of the tire close to stock, for the proper front end geometry.
1. Update (6/05) We tested the tire in the worst of conditions - dry desert in CA. With the front tire pressure at 19 pounds the 450X works far better than you'd believe. We can now toss the X into berms and it will hold it's line and steer much better. Toss the stock tire and replace it with a more sturdy tire designed for 4-strokes, We'll try to get some tires tested and report back. If you are buying a new bike, offer to have the tire traded out before you leave the show room - no kidding! Change the front tire and you'll be very happy you did.

Our bike was serviced and is running as strong as ever. Our forks were rebuilt and left with the same settings we gave to you here. This upset the fine balance (this bike is extremely sensitive to small changes) of the suspension and the back started kicking some. We slowed the rebound by 1/2 turn and found the balance we had earlier. Our suspension will take nasty deep whoop sections at full throttle - with excellent control. Fast trails, smooth or rocky, are also handled well and with good confidence. Slow speed riding is another matter as the suspension just doesn't have the plush slow ride needed to respond over slower speed terrain, and therefore doesn't provide great feedback to the rider either. The bike also has too firm of a ride for long range comfort. There's no plush suspension like on the 250X or older XRs.

On the positive side, our bike doesn't stall and it pulls well from down low while crawling over difficult terrain. Over fast terrain the bike barely hints at needing a steering damper - unlike so many orange machines. The electric starting is still somewhat sporadic, but with more miles on the machine the engine seems to turn over more easily when the starter button is hit.
2. Transmission Oil Level: It is extremely important to run the full amount of tranny oil specified. Just because oil comes out of the check hole, doesn't mean the level is correct - it actually should be above the hole. The only way to make sure you have the proper level is to drain the oil and add the specified amount yourself. Don't assume it came from the dealer with the proper amount of fluid. Your tranny will thank you by not exploding.
We tell it like we hear and see it, hope this helps. MN

- check your bikes setup -

Your axle should not be inserted further than this. If it is, the forks can bind and can wear out your fork bushings.	This is the stock fork position in the clamp. If you make our suspension setting changes, you could try raising the forks 3mm in the clamps to see if the bike turns better. We will try this in the future.
Bleed Your Brakes - For optimum performance, bleed your brakes after a few rides in case air remains in the system. This helped the feel of our brakes.

- set your fuel screw - This helps eliminate stalling and the flat spot just off idle during roll-ons.

1. Loosen the carburetor boot clamps (a screw clamp on the right side and a 8mm bolt clamp on the left). Grab the bottom of the carb and rotate it out just a little (like in the photo) so you don't mess up the many hoses routed below.	2. The fuel screw is the small screw in the middle of the left side. In is clockwise, out (1 7/8) is counter clockwise. Turn the screw all the way in, then turn it out 1 5/8 to 1 7/8 turns. You can fine tune with small 1/8 turn adjustments.
The stock fuel screw comes just over one turn to 1 1/4 turns out. Set the fuel screw to 1 5/8 - 1 7/8 turns out for optimum performance. If you ride at high elevations you might try 1 6/8 turns first. The stock bike is very cold blooded. After these changes, the bike is far less cold blooded.

- changing the needle - This helps eliminate stalling and the flat spot just off idle during roll-ons. It makes the bike far less cold-blooded as well.

1. Pull the tank. You don't have to pull the red shroud from the tank, it will come off together. Remove the fuel line from the carb first. Take note, you may pull one of the wires off the coil located under the tank. Check the wires after you pull the tank. If the wire comes off the engine will crank but not fire.	2. Work from above the bike through the frame. Remove the wire cable stay above the carb top. Note which cable this holds before removing it.	3. Remove the carburetor top. This photo shows the cover above the needle - with the carb top removed. Remove this needle cover with a t-handle wrench. Once loose, use a magnet to pull this cap up and off. Pull up STRAIGHT!	4. This is the needle cap pulled out. There are 3 pieces that go together like this. Don't let them separate and fall back onto the engine.	5. This is looking down at the top of the needle. Use Honda's needle removal tool (we don't know if the bike came with this) to pull the needle straight up. If you pull the needle to the side you can easily scratch things. The stock needle clip position is the second notch from the top. Put in the new needle, part number 16233-MEN671with the clip in the same (second down) position. Drop the needle in straight.	6. Honda's needle removal tool in action. The top of the needle is held by the rubber boot on the tool. After you change the needle and adjust the fuel screw, stalling should be gone and the low-end flat spot will go away as well. Tool part number is "89217 KRN 000"
Hints: The fuel screw should be set at 1 7/8 turns out. Some stock bikes have come at one turn out. A 1/8 turn is a really big adjustment. The needle you want is part number 16233-MEN671. Set the needle clip in the second position from the top - just like stock.

2005 CRF450X - MN Revised Suspension Settings
Shock	Set rider sag at 100mm, rider with full riding gear on.	This is key!
Fork	Add 3cc of fork oil to each leg, this raises front end ride height. You can add this fluid through the fork bleeder valve! Check your manual for the proper weight oil.	This is key!
Fork settings	Compression (top): leave at stock setting (set at 14 clicks out)	14 clicks out is stock
	Rebound (bottom): 1 click out (softer/faster) from stock (set at 8 out), if you don't like it try 7.	7 clicks out is stock
.	.	.
Shock settings	Compression (top): 1 click in from stock (1 click +, more stiff) - 1 click clockwise from stock punch marks.	Our bike: set at 8 out, 9 is stock.
	Rebound (bottom): 1/2 to 1 click out from stock (-, more soft/faster) > 1/2 to 1 click counter clockwise past punch marks. > Our bike felt dead in the back at one full click past stock and too fast a rebound (kicking in the back) at the stock setting. It felt nearly ideal at 1/2 turn softer than stock. Small adjustments make a huge difference on this bike - you can go 1/2 turns.	Our bike: set at 14 1/2 out, stock 14 out.
	High speed compression: Leave stock	Match marks
	Shock setting notes: Do not use the number of clicks for the shock adjustment, instead make changes from stock position. All shocks are dyno tested and then set with punch marks for the correct stock position - the number of clicks may not match!!! In is clockwise (full hard), out is counter clockwise (full soft). Your results may vary - we take no responsibility for your suspension adjustment - though we hope you get awesome results!